Spring is Here!
Weeds are a good sign at this time of year, as the
sudden arrival of weeds means your soil is warm enough for sowing at long
last. But also the battle between plants and snails is now on; last
year's snail are now emerging from their winter hibernation, so sprinkle on
your slug bait now to ensure the survival of your new seedlings. Spare
a thought for all the other sorts of wildlife that are killed by the slug
pellets, and consider putting the pellets in a jar, and half bury it in the
soil. This not only keeps the bait dry, it keeps it out of reach of
non target species and it actually lasts longer too.
If
you have a glasshouse or a warm garage like I do, start sowing heirloom
tomato seeds but don't let them outdoors until October. Also sow
onions indoors in trays and wait until the seedlings are 5-10cm tall before
transplanting, don't leave them in trays too long or their roots will
tangle. When sowing seeds in the garage or glasshouse, line your seed
trays with newspaper to stop potting mix seeping through the cracks or the
holes in your pots. Use another sheet of newspaper to cover your
seedlings until they break the surface and them remove it to let in the
light. Your seedlings should be cranking along now with the long
daylight hours, so feed them liquid feed regularly especially just before
you plant them out.
Rhubarb
As it's spring it is time to purchase a rhubarb crown or rejuvenate your
existing rhubarb patch with a thick layer of compost or manure. When
the middle talks get spindly and small, it's time to divide. This
month, when the first new sprouts appear, dig up and separate the crowns.
Each division should be about the size of your fist and have at least one
healthy bud. You will now have more rhubarb plants for either yourself
or to give to friends and family so they can start their patch. The
best conditions for growing rhubarb is in full sun or partial shade in
well-drained, fertile soil that is rich in organic matter. Start your
patch by putting around 10cm of manure at the bottom of a deep hole - it is
a hungry plant! Cover with compost. Space each crown
approximately 1m apart then cover with soil and mulch, the bud should be
3-5cm below the soil surface
Daffodils
She wore her yellow sun-bonnet,
She wore her greenest gown;
She turned to the south wind
And curtsied up and down.
She turned to the sunlight
And shook her yellow head,
And whispered to her neighbour:
"Winter is dead".
Daffodils are the most popular spring flowering bulbs. They are easy to
grow and require very little attention. If you planted Daffodil
bulbs in a moist, well-drained soil in early autumn they will be flowering
by now. To help flowering, use a side-dressing of Bulb Food or Blood and
Bone when the first leaves and buds appear, and then again straight after
flowering. Be sure to protect new shoots from slugs and snails. Daffodil
bulbs can be left undisturbed for several years and only need lifting and
dividing when they become overcrowded. Don't be tempted to tidy up and cut
the spent foliage back - the leaves contain the bulbs food supply for the
following seasons flowering. Tie the foliage in a knot or fold the foliage
over and secure with a rubber band to tidy them up. One way to disguise the
foliage is to plant annuals and perennials around bulbs - they flourish in
early spring as the daffodils die down.
Hydrangeas and Roses it's time to give them another prune, if you cut these
summer performers back now they'll perform will from November on, it's also
important to give citrus trees a good liquid tonic.
If you're soil is drying start planting peas now.
A couple of years ago I bought this sprouts growing container from Palmers,
it was an excellent buy, and now with spring here I have started using it
again. You just put a teaspoon of seeds in each of the three sections,
and each morning and night add a cup of clean water that filters through the
sections and then just empty the bottom section which catches the water.
In a week you have sprouts which are great for soups in winter and salads in
summer, I just put them in a container in the fridge, and start another
batch, if you see one I'd highly recommend you grab it and start growing all
sorts of sprouts and alfalfa for salads and sandwiches.
Complete vegetable preparation, digging in
plenty of compost.
- Sow seeds of carrots, parsnip, beetroot, silverbeet, peas, swede and
turnips directly into the soil.
- Sow lettuces, leeks, cabbage, tomato, capsicum, courgette, cucumber
and eggplant ready for transplanting later.
- Transplant summer vegetable seedlings into the garden; lettuce,
leeks, cabbage, onions and silverbeet.
- Plant under glass early tomato, capsicum, courgette, cucumber,
pumpkin and celery.
- Spray with Champ DP to protect young seedlings from fungus diseases.
- Protect seedlings from slugs and snails with Blitzem.
- Plant early-crop potatoes after sprouting.
- Plant herbs in pots or into the garden and sow herb seeds for summer
harvest.
- Plant citrus and fruit trees.
- Feed existing trees with Palmers Citrus Fertiliser.
- Prune Passionfruit vines and Feijoas to encourage new growth and
fruiting - late September to early October.
- Re-pot and feed houseplants with Soluble Plant Food.
- Plant hanging baskets and terracotta pots for summer display.
On the 1st of September, I rocked on down to Bunning's and today planted
the following and each week I will give them a
regular dose of Thrive liquid fertiliser to get them on their way...
- Blackjack Courgette
- Grey Crown Pumpkin Seeds
- Butterbeans
- Tumbling Red Tomato
- Crystal Apple Cucumber
- Long White Cucumber
- Telegraph Early Perfection Cucumber
- California Early Wonder Capsicums
- Bijou Dwarf Mixed Sweet Pea